Hey everyone! If you’re reading this, chances are you just got your hands on a brand new stainless steel farmhouse sink (welcome to the crew—these sinks are total game-changers for any kitchen) or you’re staring at one that’s been sitting in your garage waiting for that final upgrade: a soap dispenser. I’ve been in the game selling stainless steel farmhouse sinks for years, and let me tell you, installing a soap dispenser is one of those tiny jobs that feels intimidating at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s super straightforward. No fancy tools or construction degree required, promise. Let’s walk through this step by step—stuff I’ve seen customers nail over and over again, so you can too. Stainless Steel Farmhouse Sinks

First off, let’s talk about why this matters specifically for stainless steel farmhouse sinks, not just any old sink. Farmhouse sinks (sometimes called apron-front sinks, if you’ve heard that term) have that big, wide, flat deck—wait, no, actually, some are more shallow on the top deck, but the key is they’re thicker, sturdier, and made of that smooth, scratch-resistant stainless steel we all love. That smooth surface is why a soap dispenser works so well here—no weird curves or tight corners to fumble with. But before you even grab any tools, you need to do a little prep that’s easy to skip, but don’t skip it. Let’s get that out of the way.
First, gather your supplies. You don’t need a million things, but do make sure you have the right stuff so you’re not running to the hardware store mid-job. Here’s what you’ll need: your stainless steel farmhouse sink (duh, obviously this is why we’re all here), a soap dispenser kit (most come with everything you need, but double-check—you want the dispenser itself, the mounting gasket, the threaded lock nut, and the plastic washer, right?), a drill with a metal drill bit (super important—stainless steel is way harder than regular old plastic, so a regular wood bit will just skate across the surface and do nothing), a measuring tape, a pencil, a small level (even a tiny torpedo level works, no need for a big one), a bucket or old towel (water mess = no fun, so catch any drips), and maybe a little dish soap to lubricate the dispenser stem if it’s being stubborn when you push it through. Wait, also—turn off the water under your sink! I can’t tell you how many people forget this and end up with a little waterfall when they accidentally nudge the supply lines. Quick and easy, just twist those valves under the sink until they won’t turn anymore. Done.
Now, the big part: picking where to put the dispenser. On a farmhouse sink, the best spot is usually the back edge of the sink’s deck, not too close to the faucet, and not too close to the apron. Why? Because you want it easy to reach when you’re washing dishes, but you don’t want it spraying water all over the back wall of your sink every time you pump it. If your faucet has a sprayer, leave like 2-3 inches between the sprayer base and the soap dispenser base so they don’t get tangled. Also, don’t put it too close to the front apron—farmhouse sinks have that overhang, so if it’s too close to the front, you’ll bang your hand on the apron every time you pump soap. Trust me, I’ve had customers tell me that horror story. Mark that spot with your pencil—small, light dot, don’t press too hard, or you’ll leave a permanent mark.
Next step: drilling the hole. This is make-or-break for stainless steel. If you mess up here, you might scratch your sink, and we all know scratches on stainless steel are a pain to buff out. First, you need the right size hole. Most soap dispensers need a 1 1/8 inch to 1 3/8 inch hole. Wait, your dispenser kit will tell you exactly what size, so check that first—don’t just guess. Once you have your spot marked, here’s the trick: use a piece of painter’s tape over the mark. Why? Because the tape keeps the drill bit from skating all over the smooth stainless steel surface. That’s the #1 mistake people make here—they drill right on the flat metal, and the bit slips, leaving a little mark that’s hard to get rid of. So stick a tiny piece of tape over your pencil dot, then make a tiny pilot hole first. Use a small drill bit (like 1/8 inch) to poke through the tape and the stainless steel. That pilot hole is just to get the big bit started, so it doesn’t slip. Once you have that pilot hole, swap to your metal drill bit, set your drill to a slow speed (fast speed will overheat the metal and make the bit dull), and drill through the sink. Go slow, let the bit do the work. When you get through, pull the drill out, and you should have a clean, perfect hole. Wipe away any metal shavies with a paper towel—those are sharp, so don’t touch them with your bare hands.
Wait, what if your sink already has a hole for a soap dispenser? No big deal—most farmhouse sinks have a predrilled hole for a faucet, and if you don’t have a sprayer, you can definitely use that spot. If you don’t have a predrilled hole, that’s fine too—all the steps above still work. Some customers ask if they should caulk the dispenser, but actually, most kits come with a gasket that makes a tight seal, so caulk isn’t necessary. But if you want extra protection against water getting under there, you can use a small amount of silicone caulk around the base, but wait—make sure it’s silicone that’s safe for stainless steel, not just any old caulk. And if you do use caulk, wait 24 hours before pumping soap, so it cures.
Now, installing the dispenser itself. This part is super easy. First, take your soap dispenser and remove the pump top (you can pull it right off, most just twist or pop off). Then, take the long plastic stem that connects the pump to the bottle, and thread it through the hole you just drilled. Wait, here’s the order: from the TOP of the sink (the side you’ll see) first put the flat plastic gasket that came with the kit over the stem, so it sits right against the sink’s surface. Then, from underneath the sink (crawl under there, this is the fun part), take the threaded lock nut and screw it onto the stem. Hand-tighten it first, then use a small wrench (or pliers with a rag over them, so you don’t scratch the metal) to tighten it a little more—don’t overdo it, or you’ll crack the dispenser or strip the threads. The gasket should squish a little, making a tight seal. Now, push the pump top back onto the stem until it clicks, then screw on the soap bottle (wait, no—some dispensers have the bottle attached, so just fill it with soap, usually from the bottom or a little cap on the base). Test it: pump a little soap into the sink—does it come out smoothly? No leaks under the sink? Perfect.
Wait, are there any common mistakes I see all the time? Oh yeah. First, using the wrong drill bit. Regular twist bits for wood or plastic will not work on stainless steel—they’ll get dull in 2 seconds, slip, and ruin your sink. Metal drill bits (usually cobalt bits, they’re labeled as such) are a must. Second, drilling too fast. I know you want to get this done, but slow and steady wins here. Third, tightening the lock nut too much. I’ve had customers over-tighten and crack the plastic dispenser base, so easy does it. Fourth, forgetting to turn off the water under the sink. I’m not kidding—last month a customer emailed me saying he drilled a hole, and when he went under to tighten the nut, he nudged a supply line and flooded his kitchen. Oops. Don’t be that guy.
Another thing: if your stainless steel farmhouse sink has a brushed finish, the tape won’t leave a mark, right? Even if it does, a little buffing with a stainless steel cleaner will take it away. And if you make a tiny mistake and scratch the surface? We sell stainless steel repair kits too—just reach out if you need a recommendation, I’m happy to help.
Now, why does this matter for a farmhouse sink specifically? These sinks are heavy, durable, and designed to be the centerpiece of your kitchen. Adding a soap dispenser not only makes your kitchen functional, but it keeps that counter area clean—no more bottle of dish soap sitting on the edge of the sink, taking up space. Plus, stainless steel is resistant to rust and stains, so the dispenser won’t cause any discoloration like it might on a different material.
Once you’ve installed it, step back and admire your work. That’s it—you just added a little functional upgrade to one of the best sinks you could get for your kitchen. If you’re still in the market for a stainless steel farmhouse sink, or if you have any questions about this installation (even if you’re having trouble getting the drill bit to bite, or you need help picking the right dispenser), don’t hesitate to reach out. We’re not just a sink supplier—we’re here to help you get your kitchen exactly how you want it. Whether you need tips on installation, product recommendations, or just someone to vent to when the drill is being weird, we’re here.

Don’t skip the prep, take your time with the drilling, and remember—if it feels too hard, stop and ask. That’s what we’re here for. Your stainless steel farmhouse sink is going to look awesome with that new soap dispenser, and washing dishes will feel way less of a chore now that you don’t have to bend to reach a soap bottle. Go show off your handiwork to your family, and enjoy that clean, functional kitchen space.
Stainless Steel Handmade Sink References:
- Stainless Steel Sink Installation Guide, Home Improvement Association
- DIY Plumbing Projects for Kitchen Sinks, Local Home Repair Network
- Material Compatibility for Stainless Steel Fixtures, Stainless Steel Industry Association
Dingyi Shichuang Co., Ltd.
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